Canopy Frame

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One of the first tasks is to set the roll bar into position.  To do this, you also need to have the forward support attached to the ribs that extend from the firewall.  This is looking down into the cabin just rear of the firewall.

The support angle aluminum didn't quite come up flush with the forward angle so we had to install a number of spacers.  There is a good 1/4" of spacers here with a very long rivet installed.

After getting that aligned, we had to set the incident angle of the roll bar.  To ensure the slider matches up correctly with the roll bar, it needs to be 90 degrees offset from the longerons.

Initial fit-up of the slider showed it to be substantially out of alignment with the plane.  We needed to do some serious bending.

To ensure we only bent what we wanted to, we built a small jig to hold it in position while we yanked on one side or the other.  Lots of blocking wood attached to the table to keep it from bending in the center.

As we were bending the front bow, we heard a terrible sound - ping! and the rear bow cracked (right above the weld).

Initially frustrated, we soon realized that we would probably have cut it there to shorten it anyway.

One of the final things to fit is the front bow to the roll bar.  We were too high on the pilot side.

Raising the roller attach point on the co-pilot side solved most of the problem.  It isn't a perfect fit, but the offset between plexiglass pieces will be fiber-glassed in so we stand a good chance of being able to hide the misalignment.

After getting the frame fully squared, we trim the rear skin to match.  At this point it is only an approximate trim.  We do the final trim after the rear skirts are added on the plexi.

One of the things we did to make it smoother was to add a bushing inside the black plastic roller.  With this installed, there is no binding at the swivel point.

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Last updated: April 03, 2004.
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